In this feature article, we will explain interlining, one of TOHKAI THERMO's core products.
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Contents
1.What is Interlining?
2.Functions of Interlining
3.Types of Interlining
4.Where Interlining is Used
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Special Feature: What is Interlining?
1. What is Interlining?
Interlining is one of the essential materials used in garment manufacturing.
TOHKAI THERMO's Apparel Materials
(1) Hair Interlining (Hair Canvas)
(2) Fusible Interlining
(3) Shoulder Pads
(4) Sleeve Rolls

Interlining serves as the internal framework that helps create and maintain the garment's silhouette.
Interlining comes in various forms, including materials made from the same fabric as the outer shell. Its history dates back many years and has evolved alongside the history of clothing itself.
It is said that modern fusible interlining emerged after the early 1900s.
Since the development of the first fusible interlinings, garment production has become significantly more efficient.
2. Functions of Interlining
Why is interlining necessary in garment manufacturing?
There are two primary reasons:
① Shape Formation and Shape Retention
Interlining provides structure, firmness, and support to garments, helping create a beautiful silhouette.
It also helps garments maintain their shape even after repeated wear and laundering.
② Improved Sewability and Manufacturing Efficiency
Interlining stabilizes fabrics, making them easier to sew and assemble while contributing to a cleaner and more professional finish.
3. Types of Apparel Interlining
Interlining can be broadly categorized into two types:
Non-fusible Interlining (Sewn-in Interlining)
Fusible Interlining
A. Non-fusible Interlining
Non-fusible interlining is attached to the outer fabric by sewing rather than bonding.
Typical examples include hair canvas and shirt interlining.
(1) Hair Interlining
Hair Interlining is mainly used in the front panels of men's suits and jackets.
It is also used as a material for shoulder pads and sleeve heads.
(2) Shirt Interlining
Shirt interlining is commonly used in dress shirt collars, cuffs, and plackets to provide shape and support.
B. Fusible Interlining
Fusible interlining is bonded to the outer fabric using heat from a press machine or iron.
It is widely used in men's wear, women's wear, uniforms, and many other types of apparel due to its efficiency and versatility.
4. Where is Interlining Used?
Now, let's take a look at where interlining is used in suits and jackets.
Normally, these materials cannot be seen from the outside of a finished garment.
For demonstration purposes, the garments shown below are specially constructed to reveal the internal components.
We hope this helps you better understand the role of apparel materials.
Men's Jacket
Let's begin with a men's jacket.
In a typical men's jacket:
Hair canvas components (body canvas, chest piece, and shoulder reinforcement) are used in the front section.
Fusible interlining is used in the front panels, facings, and collar areas.
Women's Jacket
Next, let's look at a women's jacket.
Unlike men's jackets, hair canvas in women's jackets may be used only for shoulder reinforcement, or in some cases, not used at all.
Because the bust and body contours differ between men's and women's garments, the areas requiring shape retention also differ. As a result, the utilization of hair canvas varies significantly.
Fusible interlining is similarly applied to the front panels, facings, and collar areas to provide support and stability.
TOHKAI THERMO's interlinings help create garment shape, improve sewing efficiency, and maintain appearance, making them an indispensable component of quality apparel manufacturing.